Climb Western Europe’s highest peak in France
In the Mont Blanc massif, there is one giant which stands alone amongst a
myriad of snow-capped peaks. Looming over the climbing mecca of Chamonix, the
majesty of Mont Blanc has captivated climbers for centuries and calls all
would-be explorers to join them a top of Western Europes highest peak.
Attempted over two days, our itinerary is designed to give you the very best
chance of reaching the summit. During the expedition, the rewarding peak of
Tte Blanche will also usually be climbed, teaching snow and ice techniques,
building your confidence and helping with acclimatisation.
*Mont Blanc permits:* It is mandatory for climbers to hold a permit on this
trip. While the climbing permit is included in the package, the number of
permits released is limited and they are only released on certain dates each
year. Therefore your booking wont be confirmed until we obtain your
permit. Permits are expected to be released on three different dates in 2020
and they are highly sought after. We strongly recommend booking at least 6-8
months in advance to avoid disappointment.
* Crampon and ice axe tuition
* Two day summit attempt increases chances of success
* Comfortable hotel accommodation in Le Fayet
Fly to Geneva; transfer to Plan de laiguille (2207m); equipment hire.
Fly to Geneva; transfer to Le Fayet (1h 15mins) to drop our main luggage at
our hotel, where we will stay the following night. Those not flying with the
group will rendezvous with us at the airport or join the group at La Fayet.
We will have the chance to change and pack our climbing gear and day rucksack
followed by a transfer to the Cable car aiguille du midi. On the way there
will be possibility to stop at Saint Gervais for hiring technical equipment
as necessary. Then we will walk down to the hut plan de laiguille. If time
allows, our time will check the equipment and show us a few climbing
NB: You can leave any items that you dont need for the expedition in a
bag/case in the hotel as we return here on day 2.
Acclimatisation and training day. Practice of scrambling techniques and
After a hearty breakfast the guide will show us some scrambling techniques
and off-track walking. The purpose of the day is to practise as much as
possible and familiarise ourselves with technical hiking terrain in altitude,
to acclimatise and train for the Gouter hut climb.
At the end of the day we will take the cable car down to the valley of
Chamonix and transfer to Le Fayet. La Fayet is the perfect base location for
our trip, it is just beside the train station to Nid dAigle for the Mont
Blanc ascent and a 20 mins walk to the Thermal bath of Saint Gervais which
you may want to use during your stay here.
Transfer and cable car to Albert Premier refuge. Afternoon snow and ice
In the morning we transfer (public or private transport) to the cable car of
la Balme, where take the chair lift or the cable car up to 2200m and walk up
to the Albert Premier hut. In the afternoon we will have the option,
depending on weather conditions, to practise ice technique on the glacier
roped up or practise rock climbing with rope on any of the numerous
boulders above the hut.
Glacier technique training; classic climb to Tete Blanche (3429m).
Today we will practise some glacier technique and familiarise ourselves with
our crampon. Starting from the hut, depending on weather conditions, we
steadily climb either Tete Blanche (3429m). Then we will walk back and
transfer to Le Fayet for a good night sleep before 2 days of tough climbing.
NB: The itinerary for the next three days will depend on the weather on Mont
Blanc. This decision is made by our local partners. If for any reason Mont
Blanc is deemed unsafe then an alternative climb will hopefully be arranged
(usually Gran Paradiso in Italy).
Train to Nid dAigle (2372m); walk to the Tete Rousse hut (3167m).
We will start late morning from Le Fayet by taking the train to Nid dAigle
(2372 m). From there we will walk up to the Tete Rousse hut (3167m). Today
will be guided by the lead mountain guide and additional(s) mountain guide(s)
for Mont Blanc climb will join us for dinner. For Mont Blanc Ascent, there
will be one guide with 2 clients so one or two more guides will be with the
group in the next following days, depending on the group size.
Climb to the Gouter hut and then the Mont Blanc (4810m).
Today is D-day! After a very early start (can be 1 am, 4 am or 7 am depending
on weather conditions) we will climb to the Gouter hut and then the Mont
Blanc (4810m) then after the summit we will stay in the Tete Rousse or Gouter
hut for the night.
Second chance to climb the summit; descend to Le Fayet.
Today we will have a second chance to climb Mont Blanc for those who did not
have the time or the energy to do it the day before, or in case of bad
weather. Then we descend to Le Fayet for our well deserved break, where we
spend the night.
Transfer to Geneva. Fly to London.
Transfer to Geneva. Fly to London.